How to Grout Tile in 12 Simple Steps

Take on that DIY backsplash with ease.

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Grout is used to fill in the gaps between tiles, giving the tiles structural support and preventing moisture from seeping into the substrate below. Whether you're installing new tile or repairing existing ones, knowing how to grout tile can help you tackle this task DIY-style. Follow our guide for step-by-step instructions on grouting tile.

Tip!

Looking for instructions on laying tile? Read our guide How to Install Tile: Laying Tiles on the Floor & Wall to learn how.

Before You Begin

Like any good DIY, proper preparation will make the installation process smoother. These considerations will help tidy up your task list and get you ready to start grouting tile.

Which Type of Grout Should I Choose?

There are two main types of grout to choose from: cement-based and non-cement based.

Cement-Based: As the most traditional choice, this type of grout is made from a cement-based mix. It comes in sanded and unsanded options (the difference is whether or not fine sand is added to the grout mix). Sanded grout is great for floors and wide grout lines because it can help reduce cracking or shrinking. Unsanded grout is best for narrow grout lines or tiles made with glass, marble, or metal because it's less prone to scratching the finish.
Non-Cement Based: These types of grout are not cement-based. Epoxy grout is one type that combines epoxy resins with a filler to create an incredibly durable grout, which makes it great for high-traffic areas like countertops. Other types, often called single-component grouts, are made from urethane or acrylic-silicone resin and provide a sleek finished look that works well in high-moisture areas, like showers.

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How Much Grout Do I Need?

First calculating how much grout you'll need can save you a trip to the hardware store. You'll need to find key measurements like the width and height of your tile as well as the size of the spacers. Use these simple steps to find how much you'll need:

Step 1: Tile width (mm) + tile height (mm) = A
Step 2: Size of spacers (mm) x tile thickness (mm) = B
Step 3: A x B x 1.2 (the typical coverage of standard grout) = C
Step 4: Tile width (mm) x tile height (mm) = D
Step 5: C / D = E (kilograms of grout you'll need per meter)
Step 6: E x total area of tile (sq. meters)
Step 7: Convert this calculation to the imperial system, using 2.2 kilograms per pound

Tip!

You should add 10% to your final measurement to account for any spills or mistakes.

How Long Does It Take for Grout to Dry?

Whether you're grouting tile in your bathroom or kitchen, you'll need to think about how this DIY project fits into your schedule. Grout can take between 24 to 72 hours to dry and cure depending on the type of grout used. Sanded and unsanded grout often take up to 72 hours to cure, while epoxy grout takes closer to 24 hours to cure. It's important to let the grout dry fully and cure before stepping on the tiles or getting them wet. Doing so before the grout is dried can lead to tiles shifting, moisture getting beneath the tiles, or the grout flaking and peeling. Grout may feel dry to the touch, but it can take longer for the grout to cure, which bonds the grout on a molecular level.

How to Grout Tile

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What You'll Need:

Work gloves
Putty knife
Shop vacuum
Utility knife
Masking tape
Bucket
Grout
Margin trowel
Grout float (flat tool used for spreading and smoothing grout)
Tiling sponge
Microfiber towels
Caulk and caulk gun

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Step 1: Prepare the Tile

Before you can apply the new grout, it's important that you start with clean, dry tiles. Use a putty knife to carefully remove any old grout in the joints (the channels between tiles). Use the shop vacuum to clear any dust or pieces of old grout, and use a microfiber towel to dry any tiles that might be in wet locations.

Step 2: Tape Off Areas You Aren't Grouting

After the tile is clean and dry, use masking tape or painter's tape to tape off any areas where you aren't going to grout, such as the walls or trim. This step will make cleanup easy later.

Step 3: Mix the Grout

In the bucket, pour in the grout mix and add 3/4 of the total amount of water. Use a trowel to mix. Dampen a sponge with water and squeeze water into the mixture if extra moisture is needed. Tip and roll the bucket as you mix to create a cement mixer–like effect. Mix until all of the dry grout mix is incorporated and no powder is left. The mixed grout should resemble the consistency of peanut butter.

Step 4: Let It Slake

Once the grout has a peanut butter consistency, stop mixing and let the grout rest (or "slake") for 10 minutes. Slaking allows the chemicals in the grout to bond. Though the grout might feel thicker after slaking, don't add more water. Just give it another quick mix and start grouting.

Step 5: Apply the Grout

If you're applying grout to a tiled floor or another horizontal surface, pour a small amount of grout on the tiles (about a quart to a half gallon). Hold the grout float at a 45° angle and spread the grout in a sweeping motion. Compress the grout into the joints to fill them completely. Try to work in small 3' by 3' sections to make sure that the grout doesn't harden before you can fill in the joints.

If you're applying grout to the wall, tilt the bucket like you did while mixing and scoop a decent amount of grout onto your grout float. Apply the grout across the tile, making sure to press into the joints to fill them. Apply the grout in an upward motion to avoid dropping much grout on the floor.

Step 6: Remove Excess Grout

Hold your grout float at a 90-degree angle and sweep across the tile diagonally to remove any excess grout. Wipe in a serpentine S-shaped motion, zigzagging back and forth to create even coverage.

Step 7: Wipe With a Sponge

After about 20 to 30 minutes, the grout will have started to harden. Dampen a tiling sponge and sweep diagonally across the surface of the tile. Rinse the sponge in a bucket of clean water and make more passes across the tile to clean the grout off the surface, making sure to not remove the grout in the joints. Keep rinsing and wiping until you're only left with a light haze on the surface of the tiles.

Note: Never rinse tile sponges or other grouting tools in the sink because cement-based products can harden underwater and cause clogging.

Step 8: Tool the Grout Lines

"Tooling" smooths the grout lines for a consistent look. Hold the damp sponge in your palm and gently press down with your index finger, carefully smoothing out any joints that appear too high or uneven.

Step 9: Wipe Away the Haze

Leave the grout for about 30 minutes to harden. This drying time leaves a haze across the surface of the tile. Use a damp microfiber towel to wipe away the haze and then use a dry microfiber towel to dry the area.

Step 10: Let Grout Dry & Cure

Now you need to leave the grout to fully dry and cure. Though this often takes between 24 to 72 hours, it's best to check the recommended dry time on the package of grout mix.

It is crucial that you let the grout dry and cure entirely before stepping on the tiles or getting them wet because. Grout that gets prematurely wet is more prone to cracking or crumbling, which could lead to moisture seeping below the tiles and causing mold issues.

Step 11: Apply Grout Sealer

Grout can be porous, so applying grout sealer to areas that are often exposed to high traffic or water can add durability. If applying grout sealer, let the grout dry for the recommended amount of time. Apply the sealer with a small paintbrush or the applicator on the sealer. Let the grout dry for another 24 hours.

Step 12: Add Caulk

As the last step, caulk along baseboards and walls. Unlike grout, caulk can flex with the floor if it fluctuates with the temperature. Caulk also works as a sealer and joint for wet locations like showers and bathtubs. Cut the tip of the tube at an angle and apply a continuous line of caulk to the grout line. Use a damp finger to smooth the joint, and follow up with a damp sponge to remove any excess caulk.