If your kitchen flooring is looking a little worse for wear, or you want to upgrade the walls in your bathroom, you may be considering installing tile. Though most people hire professional help to complete this task, it is entirely possible for you to learn how to install floor tiles or wall tiles yourself. This guide will give you an overview of the work involved with wall and floor tile installation, and help you decide if this is a task you would like to DIY.

In This Guide:

Tile Installation
How to Install Floor Tile
How to Install Wall Tile

Tile Installation

When it comes to updating floors and walls in the kitchen, laundry room, bathroom, or entryway, most homeowners prefer to install tile over any other option. This is because stone and ceramic tiles are durable, water resistant, and easy to clean. Tiles also often have a budget-friendly price point and come in a wide variety of styles and colors. However, if you choose professional tile installation, you can expect to add an extra $5 – $10 per square foot of tiling, making it worthwhile to learn how to install tile yourself instead. Though it is not complicated to install tile, the process does require speciality tools and a large amount of preparation. So gather your gear and learn how to install floor tiles or wall tiles yourself.

How to Install Floor Tile

When you start learning how to install floor tiles, you will find there are several floor tile installation methods to choose from. Depending on your specific tiles, it is a good idea to use this guide as a starting point but follow any manufacturer's instructions on your materials. Do be aware that tile installation takes a few days – so you need to make sure you plan for this. Though this guide is by no means a full tutorial on how to install floor tile, it should give you a good grasp of what you can expect.

Step 1: Select Your Tiles
Before you select your tiles, you need to measure the area of the room you will be tiling. Area can be found by measuring the width and length of the room and multiplying them together. This number is equal to the square footage of tiles you need. You should then add another 10% – 15% to this number to account for any breakage or mistakes that may occur during the tile installation, particularly if you are only just learning how to install floor tiles. As for tile selection, most homeowners choose a durable glazed ceramic tile for its affordable price, and many styles and colors available. To learn more about porcelain and ceramic tiles, read our guide Porcelain Tiles vs. Ceramic Tiles: Know the Difference.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools
Laying tile requires a number of specialized tools and materials that include:

• Underlayment (usually cement backerboard) and seam tape (if necessary) on which to lay the tile.
• Hammer, pry bar, safety goggles, and gloves for removing any flooring (if needed).
• Tape measure, level, carpenter's square, and chalk line for all measurements.
• The correct sized trowel (the notch sizes should be the size of a tile), thin-set or recommended mortar, putty knife, rubber mallet, short wooden block, and tile spacers for the tile installation.
• A wet saw or manual tile cutter and tile nippers for any tile cuts you need to make.
• Grout, rubber grout float, sponge, and water bucket for installing grout.
• Tile sealant and silicone or caulk (if necessary) to complete the tile installation.

Step 3: Prepare the Area
Once you have your tiles selected, you can begin preparing the floor for tiles. Most homeowners prefer to cover their old flooring, which is possible as long as it is done correctly. If your old flooring is made of either concrete or tiles that are all still intact, you should be able to install tile directly on top of it. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for carpet, wood, or damaged tiles. In this instance you have one of two choices; remove the old flooring entirely, or lay down a flooring underlayment – usually a cement backerboard which will create a smooth and flat surface to ensure the tiles do not shift or crack after installation. It is best to research the best type of underlayment for the area you will be tiling. Be sure to once again take the accurate area measurement of the room and purchase the correct amount of backerboard. Once you are ready, you can remove all thresholds, baseboards, and freestanding items so you can properly install the cement backerboard and use joint tape to seal any seams. Then be sure to clear off the surface to ready it for tile installation.

Step 3: Prepare a Layout
Laying out floor tile before installation will help you more accurately measure and design the tile flooring. Installing tile is costly, and though it may be tedious you want to ensure that your tiles are perfectly placed so that there is no margin for error. Begin by finding the center of the room. First measure the four walls and find their midpoints, then snap chalk lines from each midpoint to their opposite walls. Where they intersect is the middle of the room.

Step 4: Dry Run the Layout
Start with the whole tiles in the center of the room. Laying out the floor tile this way will make the most use of complete tiles and place any cut tile at the walls where they will be less visible. Without any mortar, lay a single half row of tiles in both directions from the centerpoint. Be sure to use tile spacers between each for an accurate measurement. Mark the floor and the tiles as you go. If you end up with extremely small pieces on one end of the room, you may need to adjust the tiles to one side so the edge has more width. Be sure to mark this new placement. Leave a 1/4 inch gap around the outside edges of the tiles for expansion. Once you are sure of the design you can begin to prepare for the floor tile installation.

Tip!

Try to mix tiles from different boxes for a more even coloring in the event that one box is slightly different from the others.

Step 5: Prepare the Mortar
Thin-set mortar is the most commonly used tile bonding agent for laying tile, but ensure you have the correct adhesive for your tiles. Follow all manufacturer's directions for mixing and only mix a small amount at a time. Mortar has a limited working life or “bucket life” of about 30 – 40 minutes before it begins to set, and you don't want the mortar to harden in the bucket while you are still laying tiles. Most mortar needs to stand for 5 – 10 minutes first (called “slake time”) before the chemicals are fully activated and it is ready to use.

Tip!

Avoid adding water to the mortar after it has begun to harden as this will weaken and affect the adhesive properties.

Step 6: Apply the Mortar
To check if the mortar is ready, drag the trowel through the mixture. If it has a peanut butter consistency and ridges remain standing up, it is ready to use. Begin a test tile installation by spreading the mortar evenly into a small area on the floor using the smooth side of the trowel. Then use the notched side to comb the mortar at a 45° angle in one direction, be sure to press down hard so you hear a scraping sound. Test the first tile by laying it flat in the mortar, applying mild pressure, sliding the tile 1/4 inch back against the thin-set ridger and back into place. Then, pull the tile up to see if the back is completely covered in mortar. If not, the thin-set may be starting to dry, is incorrectly mixed, or wasn't applied evenly. Correct any issues and try again until you have the right consistency for laying tile.

Tip!

As you lay tile, spray the backerboard with a little water to keep it from soaking up the water in the mortar and causing it to dry too quickly.

Step 7: Lay the Tile
During your floor tile installation make sure your tiles are clean and dust-free. Be sure to line each tile up with your chalk lines at the layout center and ensure they are fully pressed back into the mortar. Use one spacer on each side of the tile you will be adding onto, ensuring they stick up and out for easy removal later on. Spacers ensure even distance between each tile. Work in one section at a time so the mortar doesn't dry and make sure to stop and level every three or four tiles using a rubber mallet over the wooden block. Use a putty knife to remove any thin-set that squeezes out the edges as you work and a wet sponge to remove any mortar that ends up on top of the tile (it is extremely difficult to remove when dry). It is best to carefully remove the spacers before the mortar is fully dried. Allow the mortar to dry for at least 24 hours and do not walk on the tiles before then.

Tip!

If you need to take a break between laying tiles, scrape up any overlapping mortar on the untiled areas to ensure you have a flat and even surface to work on when you return.

Step 8: Measure & Cut Tiles
Once the center tiles have dried for 24 hours, you can move onto cutting tiles for the corners and along the walls. It is ideal to save all the cutting for one day. Use a wet saw for large and thick tiles, a tile cutter for simple cuts, a handheld tile nipper for curves. Measure twice before you make any cuts to reduce the chances of mistakes. When you are laying tile make sure to leave an expansion gap between the walls and the tiles as per manufacturer's recommendations to allow for the floor and grout to expand without cracking. Allow the tiles to dry for another 24 hours or as per the manufacturer's directions.

Tip!

Don't tile yourself in – ensure you have an exit as you don't want to step on any tiles before they have dried!

Step 9: Apply the Grout
Once you are done laying tile, all the mortar is set, and all spacers are removed, you can move onto applying grout – the material that fills the space between the individual tiles. Grout is available in a number of color options which can be selected to match or complement tiles. There are various application methods, so be sure to read manufacturer's instructions before applying. Once your grout is mixed, and all trim and baseboards are protected with painter's tape, you can use a rubber grout float to begin sweeping the grout in arcs at a low angle and then pack it into the joints until they are completely filled, removing any excess.

Tip!

Be sure to clean your tools at the end of each day to ensure the mortar doesn't dry on them. Also remember not to throw any unused mortar or grout down the drain.

Step 10: Clean the Grout
Allow the grout to set for about 20 – 30 minutes before you begin cleaning the excess off. Be sure the grout is firm to the touch and then gently use a damp sponge to make light diagonal passes across the tiles to clean off the excess. Don't use too much water or press the sponge into the gaps as this may affect the grout consistency. Wash the sponge and change the water frequently for the most effective results. Allow the grout to set for about 72 hours or according to manufacturer's instructions. A light layer of grout called “grout haze,” may remain on the tile, dulling the finish. Use a haze remover to get rid of any grout haze that may have accumulated.

Step 11: Caulk if Necessary
If you need a waterproof line between your tile joint to the wall, counter, or fixtures, it is best to caulk the tiles once the grout is fully dry. It is recommended that you caulk all 90° angles to prevent water from getting beneath. Make sure that the surface is completely clean and dry before applying the caulk as per manufacturer's directions.

Step 12: Seal the Grout
To keep your grout lines looking new and clean, it is a good idea to use a sealant after you have finished laying tile. Manufacturer's instructions will give the application time. Sealing your grout adds a layer of protection that helps to prevent stains and keep mildew and mold from growing in the lines. You may need to apply the grout sealer every couple of years – sooner if you notice any water soaking into the grout.

Step 13: Install Thresholds & Baseboards
Complete your tile installation by removing any painter's tape and reinstalling any trim, baseboards, or thresholds. You may even want to consider new flooring trim to match your updated tiles.

How to Install Wall Tile

Tiles can be placed on both the floors and the walls. They are especially helpful in kitchens and bathrooms where they may have to endure food splatter and moisture. If you want to learn how to install wall tiles, you will be pleased to know that you often have a large selection since floor tiles can also be used on the walls, but not vica-versa. Putting up tile on walls is a little tricky, as you are going to be attaching a heavy material to a vertical surface. To prevent your DIY wall tiling from being done poorly, make sure to plan properly and apply them carefully to get the perfect wall you are looking for.

Step 1: Choose your Wall Tile
Whether you are adding a backsplash to a kitchen or retiling an entire wall, you need to select the best tile for the job. There are many patterns, materials, and sizes available to choose from. Be sure to purchase any trim and base tiles for your tile installation if need be.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools
Any job is easier if you have the right tools. Installing tile on walls is better with a big saw, but if you are simply adding a small backsplash you may be able to get away with a manual snap-cutter tool (as long as it isn't thick porcelain or natural stone tile). You will require all of the same tools as for installing floor tile with the addition of a batten. This is a straight piece of wood that is completely level and used as a foundation to ensure your DIY wall tiling is level.

Step 3: Prepare the Wall
Wall tile installation must be done over a clean and level drywall that has no structural flaws or weaknesses. If the wall is in a wet area such as shower or tub surrounds, then you will also need a waterproof underlayment to prevent any water seeping through the tile and potentially causing structural damage. It is possible to use a layer of sheet plastic, brush a waterproofing membrane over the cement board, or use a special cement-based backerboard with a built-in waterproof membrane. Be sure to turn off any power before removing outlet covers and tape off or cover any counters, floors, or other areas that might get messy. If there are any holes or dents more than 1/16 inches deep in the drywall, you can fill them with joint compound which can be sanded when dry.

Step 4: Plan the Tile Layout
Similarly to floor tiles, before you install wall tiles, you need to plan the layout first. Find the center of the wall and mark it with chalk to plan where you would like your tiles to go. Always use a level to check that all lines are straight and find the layout that best suits your tile design. If you need a focal point such as a stove, be sure to take that into account. You can either dry lay your tiles on the countertop along the wall (making sure to use spacers) or you can use a layout stick – a straight and level piece of wood. Lay the tiles and spacers on the floor and mark their locations on the layout stick, which you can then place against the wall to check for fit. You don't want any areas to have extremely thin slices of tile, so adjust the center wall tiles if you need to.

Tip!

Tile backsplashes need a 1/8 inch expansion gap around their perimeter.

Step 5: Install the Batten
Before you begin laying tile, you need to install a batten. This is a completely straight piece of scrap wood that will need to align the top edge to the mid-level line of your center line. Once placed, it can be screwed into the studs so that it can act as a straight support for your first row of tiles. After your first row has been set securely, you will be able to remove the batten and continue your tile installation.

Step 6: Mix Mortar
Most wall tiles do well with thin-set adhesive, but be sure to check manufacturer's instructions, particularly depending on the location to plan to install your wall tiles. Mix the mortar and apply with an appropriately-sized trowel, as you would with floor tiles.

Tip!

If you are installing glass tile, use a white thin-set as any other color might show through.

Step 7: Install the Tiles
Install the wall tiles in small sections to prevent the mortar from drying too quickly. Begin with the horizontal row above the batten and start laying tiles with spacers in between. Install only the full-width tiles first and be sure to offset the vertical grout joints by one half of the tile width. Level them with a rubber mallet and a block of wood, and remember to wipe away any extra mortar.

Tip!

If you're tiling a tub or shower surround, leave 1/8 inch of space between the tile and tub or shower base for the caulk. The same goes for where wall tile meets the floor or countertop.

Step 8: Cut & Install Sides
Once you have completed the whole tiles, you can move onto the sides and remaining gaps around faucets and outlets with partial tiles. A tile nipper can help you trim small tiles to fit these spaces. Be sure to sand the edges of your trimmed tiles with 80 grit sandpaper for a smooth edge. Remember to keep using spacers to maintain an even design.

Tip!

When laying a small tile piece, it is better to add mortar directly to the back of the tile and use the trowel to score it and then press it into place.

Step 9: Install the Trim
If you are laying tile that has trim or borders, they should be added last. As with the smaller pieces, you would do better to “butter” the back of the tiles directly when installing them.

Tip!

It is best to hide cut tiles beneath cabinets if your countertop isn't level.

Step 10: Grout the Tiles
Let the thin-set dry for 24 hours and then mix grout according to directions. If the gaps between the tiles are less than 1/8 inches, use unsanded grout. If they are more than 1/8 inches use sanded grout instead. Apply the grout as you would with flooring.

Step 11: Clean the Grout
Cleaning the grout is the same as with the floor tiles. Make sure to do so gently so you don't remove any of the grout in the lines.

Step 12: Caulk the Edges
It is extremely important to fill any expansion gaps with caulk or silicone sealant so that no water or moisture can leak through.

Step 13: Seal the Tiles
As with floor tiles, once the grout and caulk is dry, you can apply a sealer as per instructions. There are many sealants out there, so be sure to select the one that is right for your tiles.

Step 14: Replace Outlet Covers
Replace any outlet covers and fixtures that were removed prior to tile installation. Remove all tape and protective covers and appreciate your hard work.

Now that you know how to install tile on both the floor and walls, you can give your room a brand new look on your own.